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An Englishman In China

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glennsmart

glennsmart

United Kingdom

February 17, 2010

Yes, the winter holiday and time to go back to England for a couple of weeks.

 A taxi to Qufu bus station, and then a  bus to Yanzhou railway station 14 kilometres away.  Followed by the high speed D train from Yanzhou to Shanghai: a six hour rail journey.  The high-speed train is more expensive but very comfortable. And at least I was able to get a seat.

outside Qufu long distance bus station   

The bus station at Qufu       Outside of Yanzhou railway station

 At this time of year in China rail tickets aren’t easy to come by (get) as everyone is travelling back to their home cities for the winter festival and Chinese new year.  The whole population seems to be on the move.  Six hours on an expensive train – with a seat – is far better (much better) than twelve hours on a cheaper, slower train that’s absolutely packed (full) .. and where you may not have a seat.  At 9.15pm, eight hours after setting off from Qufu I was standing in Shanghai railway station.

 Shanghai is a hell of a big city. It’s sprawling and immense.  It could swallow the likes of London and Paris quite easily (that just means it is much bigger..).  Shanghai railway station can only be described as immense (very big).  It’s also incredibly busy twenty four hours a day.  It’s always ‘teeming’ with people (busy) twenty four hours a day. The UK has nothing like it.

 So, 9.15pm on a Wednesday night at Shanghai railway station and your flight isn’t until 11pm the next night from Pu Dong international airport .. so what do you do?  The airport bus that runs from the railway station and takes 75 minutes to get there isn’t available at that time of night.  The bus costs about 18 Yuan.

 Get a more expensive hotel near the railway station – about 280 Yuan a night -  or ‘lug’ (carry) a heavy suitcase to a smaller, cheaper hotel somewhere, and then get the airport bus the next morning?  Or just get a  taxi up towards the airport and stay in the airport hotel for the night?

 The airport is long way from the railway station.  A long way indeed .. more than 200 Yuan by taxi (ten times the cost of the bus..).  Of course, there is time to get the Shanghai Metro (underground railway) to make part of the journey at least.  That’s what I did.  The No1 line to People’s Square and then change to the No2 line to Long Yang Road.

 There’s the ‘MagLev’ train that runs from Long Yang road to the airport.  It costs 50 Yuan to travel on it and takes just eight minutes to reach the airport.  Unfortunately the last maglev is at 9.40pm and I got to long Yang road at 10pm.

 MagLev stands for (means) MAGnetic LEVitation.  The train has no wheels – it ‘floats’ on magnets and is very high speed.  It’s a fabulous piece of engineering actually, if you’re interested in that sort of thing. Real world-class.

 We’re all human.  We look at costs and try to work things out to save money.  But, we’re all human.  I had intended to find a hotel in the Long Yang road area and then make my way to the airport the next day …but.. if you’ve ever spent hours travelling, lugging (carrying) a heavy suitcase with you .. well,  I guess you know how tired you become a few hours down the line (a few hours later).

 By 10pm I was dead-beat (tired .. I could say ‘dog tired’ too) when I bumped into (met) an English speaking taxi driver.  I just told him to ‘get me to a hotel near the airport’.  I no longer cared about how much the taxi would cost. I just wanted to find a room, have a wash, and collapse into a bed..

 ‘Fair play’ (good for him..) he said he knew a cheap hotel near the airport.  I’ve forgotten his name but I have it written in my notebook along with his telephone number.  He was a football fanatic.  I’ll bring him a Newcastle United football top when I return to Shanghai in a couple of weeks.

 It was a cheap hotel.  About five minutes from the airport.  ‘Seedy’ would be a good word to use.  That just means ‘scruffy’ .. a bit dirty and ‘run-down’ (not too good).  Not the best of hotels … but it was cheap.

  sitting in a 'seedy' hotel

It must have been 11.30pm by the time I booked  in and got into my room.  Unbelievably, the girl on the reception desk, the security guard and somebody else argued loudly until 2a.m.  Ignorant people. They kept everybody awake.  I went out of my room at 2 a.m and asked them to shut up.  They did.  But at 6am they started arguing again.  The hotel is called Shanghai Xiangyuan Hotel.   If you ever visit Shanghai .. don’t bother staying there ..

 Next  morning  I dropped my suitcase off at the airport – leaving it at a baggage storage office, where you pay for them to look after it.  I had quite a few hours to spare before the 11pm flight and I didn’t want to haul (carry) the suitcase around Shanghai with me.

 I met up with ‘Babe’ a Chinese girl who is a member of an online English-speaking club.  I’d never actually met Babe before, though I had spoken with her many times online.  Babe works long hours and travels one and a half hours by bus every evening to get home.  Shanghai is a big city …

 

 I travelled to meet Babe using the ‘Maglev’ train.  The Great Wall of China and the Terracotta Warriors in Xi’an are iconic (represent China – famous) but .. a Maglev train is a modern icon.   At least I think so.  Just like the Great Wall and the terracotta warriors, it represents a human achievement.  A fabulous piece of engineering indeed.

 

Maglev train.  It travels at 300KM per hour

 Within a few hours we had visited a restaurant for lunch – spicy bullfrog – and then moved on to the Jingan temple.  It isn’t a temple as such now.  Maybe it was a temple a long time ago.  Now it is a tourist area with tourist type shops.  Well known in Shanghai.

 Then we moved on (went to) to the Oriental Pearl Tower .. a huge tower which I believe is the 3rd largest tower in the world. It costs 100 yuan to take the elevator to the top, some 300 meters  above ground level. In British English an elevator is called a ‘lift’.  There’s actually a balcony with a  glass floor.  Walk on the glass floor and the ground can be seen a long way beneath your feet …. It’s a weird (strange) and ‘unnerving’ experience.  Part of your mind tells you that the glass might break and you’ll fall 300 metres to the ground (I think that would hurt ..)  and part of your mind tells you that the glass is safe to walk on .. but you’re ‘wary’ (nervous ..hesitant…) to walk on it.   Even if you see 8 year old Chinese girls dancing on the glass floor … yes, they were ‘showing off’.

oriental pearl tower, shanghai view from the base of the oriental pearl tower

The oriental pearl tower, Shanghai

 From the top of the tower there is a ‘panoramic’  view of the city.  Panorama just means ‘wide’ or ‘big’ view of landscape.  Just like if you went to the top of a mountain – you would see the ‘panorama’  - the countryside on all sides.

 Yes, you can see the city in all its glory.  It stretches as far as they eye can see in all directions.  Beneath you is the ‘bund’.  The Bund is famous in Shanghai.  Bund actually means a retaining wall – a wall that keeps something from spilling out or keeps something in.  For example … if you had a container with 10,000 litres of oil you might build a wall around it .. so if the oil leaked out (spilled) .. the wall would prevent the oil from ‘going everywhere’.  You would call that wall a ‘bund’.

 Most English speaking nations wouldn’t know what ‘bund’ meant.  The word  has almost disappeared from the English language now.  It isn’t used in everyday English.   That’s how English is… a ‘dynamic’ (changing/moving) language that absorbs (takes in .. accepts) words from other languages; constantly changing.

 But … the Bund in Shanghai  it was a  wall that prevented the sea – the tidal Huangpu river – from ‘encroaching’ (going onto) the city.  The Bund was nothing more than a wall ..

  

                                   Shanghai River area - view from tower 

 Built 200 years ago by the British and other foreign ‘powers’ who invaded China.  Look at the buildings on the Bund and you will see European style buildings: tall columns .. ‘stately’ buildings made by empires at the height of  their powers.  Then, they were embassies and official buildings.  Now, they are banks and .. I believe.. airline flight offices.  History makes the present day.  It is what we came from; what we were.

  

                          Top of tower                The glass floor

 Shanghai .. yes .. everybody has heard of that city .. but did you know ‘Shanghai’d’ is in the English language?  That’s Shangai’D not Shanghai.  Shanghai’d means kidnapped or forced to do something against your will .. something you wouldn’t normally do ..

 A couple of hundred years ago in the time of wooden sailing ships ‘press gangs’ would go ashore in Shanghai to find crew members to serve on the ships.  The press gangs ( a few men) would go to the bars along the Shanghai waterfront and buy drinks for locals .. who got drunk and fell asleep .. and when they woke up, they were on a  ship and had to work there, whether they wanted to or not…  Or they were simply kidnapped by the ‘press gangs’.

  

Shanghai riverside area

 They had been ‘Shanghai’d’ ..  forced to work on a ship against their will.  Today, the expression ‘Shanghai’d is still used in a similar context.  Linwei didn’t want to visit the temple on the mountain … but he was ‘Shanghai’d by his friends …. Persuaded to go there even though he didn’t want to go …

 And the hours passed very quickly.  Time to get the metro (underground railway) back to Long Yang Road and then the maglev to the airport.  That’s Pu Dong international airport.  Shanghai has two airports. Pu Dong is big and ‘space age’ .. new and modern.  Big … it’s easy to get lost … and a bowl of noodles with beef will cost you 80 yuan.  Expensive.  Like all international airports are.

 So, book in and wait … go through security and passport checks and wait ..

 Then it’s time to board the flight to Dubai, in the United Arab Emirates.  It’s the longest way back to England, but the cheapest.  A ten hour flight to Dubai, followed by a 2 hour wait at Dubai and then an 8 hour flight to England.

 If you have never travelled on an international flight you haven’t missed much .. it’s boring!  It really is.   Fly at night and you can’t see anything out of the small aircraft windows .. and everybody is trying to sleep anyway.  Your legs become stiff and cramped with sitting in a seat with not much legroom.  Some people can sleep in an aircraft … I’m not one of them.

 Ten hours to Dubai, in the United Arab Emirates.  Ten cramped, boring hours in a darkened aircraft.  Followed by a couple of hours in Dubai airport, which is ‘bustling’ (busy) and modern.  Shanghai airport is modern and ‘fairly relaxed’ but Dubai has a different ‘atmosphere’.  In contrast, I hate Beijing airport.  Modern and impressive yes .. but Beijing airport has a ‘cold and impersonal’ atmosphere.  No disrespect to China or the Chinese, but Beijing airport is full of grim-faced, cold and impersonal police and security officials.  Beijing airport isn’t a pleasant experience.  Shanghai airport is better.

  

Shanghai airport                  Dubai airport

 You could describe Dubai airport as a ‘melting pot’ of nationalities.  It is here that you will see the white Europeans, the black Africans, the swarthy Arabs and Asians.  All waiting to get a  connecting flight to wherever ..

 Dubai is a wealthy place.  That much is obvious from the buildings they have.  Dubai also has a lot of ex-pats (means ex-patriots .. people from other countries who now live and work in Dubai.  Just like Shanghai has a large ex-pat community).

 It was daylight when my flight to England took off from Dubai.  I also had a window seat in the aircraft and had a good view of the ground as the plane took off.  Sand and desert everywhere…  It would be too easy to say ‘I’m glad I don’t live here’ when you look down at the houses surrounded by sand and desert.  But the truth is, humans create a living environment wherever they need to do so.  The human race is very adaptable and Dubai is one shining (good) example that reflects (shows the abilities and skill)  what humans can do.

 Usually when flying ‘long haul’ (long distance) you travel at night.  Don’t ask me why, but that’s just my experience.  Of course at night the aircraft have the window-blinds pulled down and the passengers are either asleep or watching in-flight movies. If you fly during the day the odds are (the likelihood .. the probability/chances) are that you won’t see anything beneath you except the continual expanse of white clouds.  You don’t know if you are above land or sea.  The only way of knowing where you are is the aircraft position that is marked on a small computer screen in the back of the seat in front of you.  The same computer screen you can use to watch movies or listen to music through headphones.

 Sleeping on the aircraft

 When flying over a desert it is different.  There’s no water vapour to create clouds that obscure (hide) the ground beneath the aircraft.

 It was the first time I had seen the deserts of Iran/Iraq.  It also made me realise just how vast (big) they were.  Bleak, empty …. And from the height of an international aircraft you can see the occasional settlement (town) huddled in the protection of a valley.  It also makes you realise just how scarce – and precious – water is in many parts of the world.

  

Flying abvove the Iran-Iraq desert.  Even mountains look small

 And in another week I'll be making the return journey to China

More entries: Weifang to the desert (1), From Weifang to Manzhouli, Time Passes Quickly (2), Brass Monkey, Dog Poo and Jump Start (1), From China to England, A couple of Riddles, Oops!, Weifang (2)

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